Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Switzerland: More Than Just Neutral Chocolate

Switzerland was the first country we arrived in without much semblance of a plan. In London, we knew about Big Ben and the British Museum, Hyde Park and Buckingham Palace. In Amsterdam we knew about the canals and the red light district. In Paris, we knew the Seine would keep us busy for a while. But when we arrived in Switzerland, we were without a clue as to how to occupy ourselves.

This turned out to be a great thing. There is something delightfully adventurous about touring a city without a map. Some might say we could miss the most important parts of the city, but on our first day in Bern, we walked all around, enjoying some sunshine and a leisurely swim in the river amongst the locals. To me, that sounds far more fun than touring Einstein's house or some boring history museum.


We decided to try the same lack of planning on our second day. After getting a somewhat late start, we banded up with some other American backpackers we had met and headed for a popular hill with a view of the city and some of the distant Alps. After walking a little too far in the wrong direction along the banks of the fast flowing Aare river, we ended up in a picturesque rolling wheat field, quite some distance still from where we meant to be. But there was wheat in a field and cows with cowbells and a view of the alps, so how lost were we really? It's debatable. But we did have a goal for the day, so we pressed on toward our desired hill, which is actually called Gurten and has a funicular to carry the lazy people up and hiking trails for the poor ones. I bet you know which group we fell into.


After a short but strenuous 45 minute hike, we made if to the top, where we discovered a hotel, some ski jumps, a huge park, and probably the nicest bathrooms we've seen yet in Europe. And of course, some great views of Bern and the Alps. We ate some lunch, hung around on top for a while, and headed back to town. That evening, we watched the 1997 box office hit Face/Off, featuring John Travolta and Nicholas Cage in a performance definitely to be missed. It's the type of movie you know will be awful but you watch anyway.


After the movie, we sat and chatted with a nice guy from Algeria who was studying in Paris and traveling for a few weeks. It turned out that the guy was interested in photography, so we ended up going out into Bern and doing some night photography until around 5 in the morning. I must say, there is nothing like the hostel environment to inspire one to partake in spur of the moment activities.

Yesterday, we hopped a train to Interlaken, a small city surrounded by mountains and majestic cliffs on two sides and lakes on the other two. The place is a touristy mecca for those backpackers with 300 or so Swiss Francs to spend on skydiving or paragliding. In the winter, the place turns into a giant ski resort. Since we are on a budget, we chose to leave the next morning for higher ground, where the scenery is better and the hiking is good.


The town we came to is called Gimmelwald, and it is like very few places I have been before. At about 4500 feet of elevation, the cluster of wooden buildings clings to a hillside which faces three beautiful snowy peaks. Literally, snowy alps are what you see directly out the windows of our hostel, seemingly close enough to be touched.

We arrived this morning by train, then bus, then aerial tram. Any other way requires a hefty hike. We were greeted by some seriously amazing scenery and a welcomed lack of anything remotely touristy. The only thing to see are hills and mountains. The constant thundering of huge waterfalls echoes from up the valley. Our hostel is one of only two lodgings in town, and one of two places to have a beer. The other is next door. Marc and Alex bought cheese and sausage made from the cows up here in Gimmelwald. The cheese lady sells her goods from a shed on stilts. The stilts are to keep the mice out. To get some attention, you must first knock on her front door, at which point she walks around the side of her house to the cheese shed with you. This town is a little different from most places.


To put it lightly, Gimmelwald speaks to me. The moment we got off tfe tram, I could feel myself relaxing. Whereas we usually like to get somewhere and start doing things right away, this place makes me want lay down under a tree and just listen to the waterfalls. The hostel isn't bad either, and you get a certain group of backpackers coming to an off the beaten path type of place like this that I really enjoy. Not many drunken frat guys up here. The view of the night sky is unparalleled, and if not for how cold it gets at night up here, I might try sleeping out in the front yard.


We plan to wake up tomorrow and have some yogurt made locally from the cows in town. Later we're going to hike all around, check out some waterfalls, and meander through some flowery meadows. It's a welcomed change of pace from the cities we've been in for nearly three weeks now. Barcelona this weekend!
posted by Michael at 3:10 PM -
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